OCD To Dress 



GV 1219 

118 
Copy 1 



'Ty 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/howtodressdollOOmorg 



HOW TO DRESS A 
DOLL 



BY 

MARY H. MORGAN 



PHILADELPHIA 

HENRY ALTEMUS COMPANY 



Copyright, 1908, by Howard E. Altemus 
Published May, 190S 



.H 



■i 



V.v^■ 



% 



LIBRARY of OONGRES? 
Two Copies Rec«vo« 

JUL 15 1908 

CLASS/4^^ XXc, Nu. 

-2^0 ^ f I t' 

COPY a. 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



FOREWORD 



TO YOUNG DRESSMAKERS 

Little girl mothers have almost as much 
trouble as grown-up mothers about their chil- 
dren's clothes. It would never do if their 
dollies were not stylishly dressed; yet how to 
manage it is the bother. Mothers, big sisters 
and nurses are usually too busy to make lots 
of dainty underclothes, dresses, coats and hats 
for their doll family, and there do not seem 
to be many doll dressmakers and milliners. 

This book will helo you to get rid of that 
bother. It will show you how to have your 
dollies beautifully dressed without troubling 
big people or costing much money. How will 
it do it? By teaching you to make your 
dollies' clothes. 

Look over the pages and see the interesting 
pictures. Here are clothes to be made for 
each member of your doll family — long 
3 



4 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

dresses, coats, and caps for the wee baby; 
dainty underclothes, school frocks, and out- 
door wraps for the older doll; an apron and 
a nice kimono for the mamma doll to lounge 
in. Better yet, there are a fine gown for birth- 
day parties and quaint costumes if any of the 
dolls should be invited to a fancy dress affair. 

The patterns are simple and easy for you 
to cut out and make, but you must follow the 
directions exactly. The small pictures show 
you how to work different stitches to trim 
your doll frocks, and also make plainer the 
various steps in sewing. 

Of course, you will want to start on all these 
fine clothes at once; but that will never do 
unless you already know how to sew nicely. 
The pretty patterns would be quite spoiled by 
big stitches and crooked seams. 

So, before you learn to cut out and make 
the infant's dress or any of the others, we 
will have a few lessons on some things all 
good dressmakers must know. Every girl, 
nowadays, wants to be a fine needlewoman, 
and the best way to become one is to sew your 
doirs clothes just as neatly as possible. Then, 
when you are grown up you can make yourself 
lovely blouses and frocks. 



CHAPTER I 
GENERAL SEWING HINTS 
Correct Position for Sewing 

Never sit on too high a chair; the feet 
;hould rest comfortably on the floor. 

Sit so the end of the spine rests against 
the back of the chair. This will keep the body 
straight and prevent stooping or bending of 
the neck. 

Hold the work up to you ; do not lean over to 
it. Always keep the chest up and do not let 
the head droop forward, for it will cause 
headache. 

The sewing should never be held close to 
the eyes, as it causes squinting and eye-strain. 

Never rest the arm on chair or table when 
sewing, but keep the elbow close to the body, 
moving the wrist only. 

Always sit with the light falling over the 
left shoulder. Never face the light or sew 
with the sun shining on the work. 
5 



6 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

Making Preparation 

Always have clean hands before beginning 
to sew. If white work is to be done wear an 
apron or lay a towel or big handkerchief on 
the lap to keep the work clean. 

Have a work-bag beside you holding pins, 
thimble, scissors, needles, thread and sewing- 
silk, an emery, a tape-measure or foot-rule, and 
a notched card for measuring hems. 

Fold up your work neatly each time you are 
through with it; never jam it roughly into the 
work bag. Creased and rumpled materials are 
hard to sew. 

Thimble Exercise 

To sew without a thimble hurts the finger 
and prevents fast work. Wear it on the mid- 
dle finger of the right hand. It should fit 
snugly but not pinch. 

Practice the thimble motion by holding the 
thumb of the right hand from you almost at 
right angles and strike the under part of the 
first joint of it with the end of the thimble. 
Bend the two joints of the thimble finger 
slightly and work from the knuckle. This will 
give you the correct position of the finger, and 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 7 

should be repeated until the motion becomes 
natural. 

Holding the finger bent correctly, keep the 
arm steady and move the wrist half-way round, 
from right to left, as if holding an imaginary 
needle. 

Next take a good-sized needle and place it 
over the end of the thumb of the right 
hand, about a quarter of an inch from 
the point, holding it firmly with the first 
finger a little below the tip. Repeat the 
thimble-striking motions, but hit the end of 
the needle. 

Hold a strip of stiff, white paper between 
the thumb and first finger of the left hand, 
keeping it firm between the third and fourth 
fingers. Holding the needle and thimble as 
directed, make a stitch in the paper. Push 
the needle through with the thimble until the 
eye is almost reached, then lift the hand and 
pull the point of the needle through with the 
thumb and first finger. 

Make these stitches again and again, at first 
anywhere on the paper ; later try to keep them 
in a straight line with the holes even distances 
apart. 

Practice the paper-stitches with a zephyr 



8 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

needle at first, gradually with smaller ones 
until the tiniest is reached. Not until then 
should thread be used. 

Scissors and How to Use Them 

Use sharp scissors about five inches long, 
of the best steel. Also have a pair for button- 
holes and quite small pointed ones for cutting 
scallops or ripping. 

Slip the thumb of the right hand through the 
broader hole and the second and third fingers 
through the other one, letting the scissors rest 
on the first finger for guidance and support. 
Open and shut them often. 

Put the blunt blade of the scissors down on 
a table, with the thumb up, and practice open- 
ing and shutting the blades. Later, push the 
scissors away from you toward the back of the 
table, as if cutting along a line. Keep the 
blunt point on the table as it is done. 

Practice cutting from right to left on the 
table in the same way. 

Next practice cutting ruled paper,- first fol- 
lowing the lines, then cutting between and 
across them. Later, circles, stars and other 
figures can be drawn on plain paper and be 
cut out. 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 9 

Lastly, different sized squares may be 
measured with a ruler, marked with a pencil 
and cut along the lines. To be sure they are 
exact, draw two diagonal lines from corner to 
corner so they cross in the center. 

With this practice it will be easy to cut out 
the patches, and later the patterns, without 
assistance. 

Never use scissors that have grown too dull 
to cut well, or the edges of the material will 
be jagged. 

Needles and Their Management 

Ordinary sewing needles are of three kinds 
— "sharps," "betweens" and "ground-downs." 
"Sharps" are the ones most people use when 
sewing. "Betweens" are shorter, but if one 
gets used to them one will like them much bet- 
ter and can do faster work. "Ground-downs" 
are very tiny and are not often used except for 
very fine work. 

Needles are numbered from i to 12; Num- 
ber I being the coarsest. The finer the ma- 
terial the finer should be the needle. 

There are also crewel, darning and zephyr 
needles which have long eyes so as to hold 
heavier threads. 



10 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



To thread a needle, hold it in the right hand 
partly resting on the tip of the second finger, 
the eye about an eighth of an inch above 
the first finger, pressed tight by the thumb. 
[Fig. I.] 

Hold the thread between the thumb and 
first finger of the left hand about a quarter of 




Figure i 



an inch from the end, steadying it by the other 
fingers. 

To get the thread through the eye, rest the 
first joint of the left-hand thumb against that 
of the right-hand thumb and press hard, guid- 
ing the thread through the eye at the same time. 

As soon as the point can be seen on the 
other side of the eye, slip the needle between 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 11 

the thumb and first finger of the left hand 
and pull the thread through with the tips 
of the thumb and first finger of the right 
hand. 

Practice needle-threading until it can be done 
quickly. First use coarse-eyed needles and fine 




Figure 2 



thread, gradually reaching proper sizes. 
Crewel needles are threaded by folding back 
the end of the thread and pushing it through 
doubled. 

The position of the needle for sewing is be- 
tween the thumb and first finger of the right 



12 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

hand, about a quarter of an inch from the 
point, with the end pressed against the end of 
the thimble. [Fig. 2.] 

Never use a rusty, bent needle, nor one too 
large for the thread nor so coarse that jt 
makes holes in the material. 

Always have an emery in the sewing-basket 
to run the needle through when it gets sticky. 
If thread is not bitten and the hands are kept 
clean, the needles will be easier to work with. 

The Thread 

Plain sewing on cotton materials is done 
with basting cotton and other cotton threads, 
which are numbered from i to 200, the lower 
numbers being the coarsest. 

For wool or silk fabrics sewing silk is used ; 
it is numbered by letters from "AA" to "E," 
the coarsest being "E." There is also a but- 
tonhole twist of silk in different letters from 
"A" to "E." 

Scallops, catch-stitching and feather-stitch- 
ing are done in mercerized cottons which 
have a lustre like silk but are cheaper and 
wash better. 

Basting may be done with a coarse white 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 13 

basting cotton, though many people prefer 
using a Number 40. Never baste with silk; 
it is wasteful. 

Do not use too long a thread, as it twists, 
tangles and gets rough and thin. The dis- 
tance from shoulder to shoulder is about the 
right length. 

Always put through the eye of the needle 
the end of the thread that is not broken from 
the spool. This prevents tangling and knots. 
To make sure of doing it, the needle may be 
threaded before the thread is cut from the 
spool. 

A Number 7 needle usually takes 40 to 50 
thread; a Number 8 needle, 60 to 80 thread; 
a Number 9 needle, 90 to no thread. Use the. 
finer needles for all cottons over no. If a 
thread is in a needle too fine for it, it 
will stick and must be jerked through the 
material. 

Never use a coarse needle and thread on 
stiff silks, even for basting, as they leave holes 
in the material. 

Never wet the end of the thread to go 
through the eye, but twist it to a point be- 
tween the thumb and first finger of the right 
hand. 



14 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

Knots 

A knot should be round, small, with the end 
entirely fastened in. 

To make it, hold the thread about two inches 
from the end, between the thumb and first 
finger of the right hand, and under the third 
and little finger to make it firm [Fig. 3]. Put 




Figure 3 



the thread around the tip of the first finger of 
the left hand with the end next to the thumb 
and below the loop. With the tip of the thumb 
twist this thread over the loop several times 
until it works off the finger, when it is held 
firm on the thumb while the twist is drawn 
down tight with the nail of the second finger. 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 15 

Making a knot is difficult for most chil- 
dren and should be practiced over and over 
again. 

Tape Measure and Hem Marker 

Learn the use of a tape measure or foot 
rule, and mark off inches, half inches, quarter 
inches and less on a piece of paper. Also 
learn to measure a yard and its divisions, a 
half, a quarter, eighth and sixteenth of a 
yard. 

A narrow, stiff piece of cardboard should 
have notches marked on it at intervals to meas- 
ure hems and turn-downs of different widths. 

Lay the paper flat on the table, keeping it 
firm with the second finger of the right hand, 
and hold the measure, notched side down, so 
the end comes to the edge of the paper. Meas- 
ure the right depth, crease with the thumb of 
the right hand, shove the measure along with 
the left one and at the same time fold over 
more of the turn-down. 

The edge of the paper must be even, or else 
straight folds cannot be made. 

Practice all widths of turn-downs on paper; 
also practice folding over and measuring a 
second time as if for a hem. 



16 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

Warp, Woof and Selvage 

Every material has two kinds of threads — 
those that run up and down and those that run 
across. The threads that run up and down, 
or the lengthwise of the material, are called 
the warp; those that run across the material, 
from one selvage to the other, are called the 
woof. 

A bias cut is made diagonally across the 
warp and woof threads. To get it, fold the 
material so the woof, or cross-threads, lie 
along the warp, or lengthwise threads. Cut 
through the crease thus made. This slanting 
edge is used as a guide for measuring bias 
strips for facing or binding. Practice cutting 
bias strips with squares of paper, folding the 
lower edge so it lies along the side edge ; then 
cut through the crease. 

"Selvage" means the woven or finished edge 
to the material. 



CHAPTER II 

SOME SIMPLE STITCHES 

Basting 

Basting is sewing- with large stitches to 
prepare the work for the real sewing with 
small stitches. For ordinary basting, make the 
stitches an inch long with an eighth of an 
inch space between. Basting is most impor- 
tant, for the straighter the basting the more 
even will be the finished work. Always use 
white basting cotton and begin with a knot on 
the right side of the garment. A knot is used 
because basting threads are always pulled out. 
The knot is put on the right side so as to be 
more easily seen. 

Running 

Running-stitches are much the same as bast- 
ing stitches, only much smaller. The space 
between is equal. The running-stitch is used 
for seams where not much strength is neces- 
sary ; also for gathering and for tucks. 

3 — JIow to Dress a Boll 17 



18 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

Binding 

A binding is used to cover raw edges. It 
is sometimes of a contrasting color for orna- 
mentation. It is generally a narrow piece of 
the material cut on the bias. It is basted to 
the edge, right side to right side. Sew just 
below the line of basting, fold over on the 
wrong side, turn in the edge of the bias piece 
and hem so the work does not show on the 
right side. 

Facing 

A facing is used instead of a hem. It is 
either cut on the bias or is shaped to the place 
to be faced. It is basted and sewed with right 
side to right side and then is turned over and 
basted on the edge. Lastly, turn in the upper 
edge and hem down. 

Seaming 

Seaming is the joining together of two 
separate pieces. First, baste the edges together ; 
then make the seam a little below the basting 
with a running- and a back-stitch. That means, 
take two stitches forward and then go back 
one stitch, being careful to put the needle ex- 
actly where the previous stitch went in. When 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



19 



you get to the end of the seam, take out the 
bastings, and the edges are ready to overcast. 
When overcasting, hold the work firmly be- 
tween the thumb and first finger of the left 
hand, the hand being always over the work. 




Figure 4 



Never in overcasting, or overhanding, hold 
the work around the first finger. Put the 
needle in straight, at right angles to the seam, 
with the point toward you. This makes a 
slanting stitch. [Fig. 4.] To have the over- 



20 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



casting quite perfect, the stitches must be not 
only at equal distances, but of equal depth. 

The difference between overcasting and 
overhanding is that over handing is the real 
sewing of the seam itself; while overcasting is 
only used to keep raw edges on a seam already 
sewed, from fraying. Overhanding is simply 




Figure 5 



sewing over-and-over, close to the edge, with 
very small stitches. [Fig. 5.] 



The Felled Seam 

Next comes the felled seam. This is made 
by sewing the raw edges together with a run- 
ning and a back-stitch, one edge an eighth of an 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 21 

inch below the other. Next, turn the wide edge 
over the narrow one and hem down neatly to 
make a flat seam. The stitches should be 
small and perfectly even. [Fig. 6.] 

When two bias edges come together they 
should always be felled. 

The French fell is much easier to make. 



Figure 6 

Sew the edges together with the narrowest pos- 
sible seam, first on the right side of the 
garment. Then turn, and on the wrong side 
make a seam just large enough to cover the 
raw edges of the other seam. [Fig. 7.] 



22 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

Always cut the thread. Never under any 
circumstances break it, for it is almost sure 
to cause trouble. The beginning and ending 
of sewing are very important, and great care 
should be taken to do both right. Begin with 
a small knot, if it can be concealed ; otherwise, 
with two or three over-and-over stitches. End 



Figure 7 

also with a few over-and-over stitches to pre- 
vent the work from ripping. 

In sewing a long seam it is sometimes diffi- 
cult to have the ends come out even. To pre- 
vent this unevenness, begin to sew from one 
end to the middle; then from the other end to 
meet it. 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 23 

Hemming 

Hemming is finishing a piece of work by 
folding over the raw edge twice, and then 
sewing down the fold. The first fold is made 
as narrow as possible [Fig. 8], and must be 
exact, for the evenness of the hem depends 
upon the first fold. For a very narrow hem, 




Figure 8 

the second turn-over is just the same width 
as the first fold. 

For a wider hem, use a notched card. Meas- 
ure for the width of hem desired and notch the 
card accordingly. To measure the hem, take 
the notched card, place it on the edge of the 
first fold and crease the second turn of the 
hem the width the notch in the card indicates. 
Crease for about an inch. Then begin to baste, 
moving the card a little in advance. Baste the 



^ 



24 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



hem as close to the edge as possible so as to 
catch the first fold. 

In hemming, the stitches should be the same 
distance apart, and each stitch must be made 
to slant exactly right. To do this hold the 
work over the first finger of the left hand and 
put the needle into the work near enough to 
the hem to touch it (but not under it), and 
just midway between where it came out for 




Figure 9 



the last stitch, and where it is to come out for 
the next one. [Fig. 9.] • 

The needle should be almost on the same 
line with the hem. Hemming-stitches should 
not be up and down, nor straight, like run- 
ning stitches; neither should they be too close 
together. 

The length of the stitch and the length of 
the space between should be equal. 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 25 

Tucking 

Tucks are used in many ways; sometimes 
for shortening the skirts of garments, but more 
often for ornament. 

Always use a notched card to measure with. 



Turn Over Here 
Sew Here 






y//////y////'y^/^//^///y//^/>/' ^ ^ ^ yy^y^ 



Figure io 



To make narrow tucks above a hem 
[Fig. lo] notch the card to indicate the dis- 
tance from the top of the hem to the Hne where 



26 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

the sewing will be on the under side of the 
tuck and from that to the line where the tuck 
is to be folded. This same measure will do for 
the other tucks, measuring from the sewing 
of the last tuck, instead of from the top of the 
hem. 

A tuck covers a space equal to its own depth, 
and this must be added to the distance desired 
between the tucks. 

Having measured the tuck, double the goods 
at the line marked for the crease, and baste 
through the two thicknesses on the line indi- 
cated for the sewing. It is basted as it is 
measured, the measuring card being kept a 
little in advance of the sewing. A running- 
stitch is used for the tucking which is done on 
the upper side of the tuck. As a general rule, 
tucks should be half their own width apart. 

Gathering 

Gathering is done with a double thread on 
the right side of the material. The rule for 
ordinary gathering is to take up once and a 
half as much as is left down. Sew about a 
quarter of an inch below the edge. 



CHAPTER III 

BUTTONHOLES AND SCALLOPS 

Buttonholes 

Buttonholing is a difficult operation for be- 
ginners, and it is best to practice on an im- 
aginary opening before making a regular but- 
tonhole. The buttonhole can be marked by 
drawing a pencil line on the goods and sewed 
around exactly as for a real buttonhole. 

To cut a buttonhole the correct size, lay the 
button on a paper and make two dots with a 
pencil on opposite sides of the button. Then 
fix the gauge of the buttonhole scissors so they 
will make a cut just a trifle longer than from 
dot to dot. To be sure it is the right size, 
slip the button through. Some allowance must 
be made for what the sewing will take up. 
This should first be practiced on paper before 
the material is cut. 

Use as coarse a thread and as fine a needle 
as will go together. As it is very trying to 

27 



28 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



have the thread give out before the button- 
hole is finished, the length of thread is impor- 
tant. For dolly's clothes three-eighths to a 
half yard is ample. 

The "bar" of the buttonhole is on the inside. 
That is, the furthest from the edge of the 
garment. Begin by taking three threads across 




Figure ii 



the end which makes a foundation for the 
bar, then overcast the slit. The buttonhole 
is held on the first finger of the left hand 
and is worked from left to right. Put the 
needle in straight, at right angles to the 
work. With the thread between the mid- 
dle fingers, throw back the thread with the 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 29 

little finger. Put the needle into the button- 
hole [Fig. ii], bringing it out on the side 
nearer you. Draw it half-way through just 
below the line of the overcasting. Take hold of 
the thread near enough to the needle to take 
the double thickness of thread, and with the 
right hand, going from right to left, put the 
two threads under the point of the needle, and 
pull the needle through. Give a little jerk to 
the thread, first toward you, then in the op- 
posite direction. Every stitch is made the 
same way and must be exactly the same depth 
and should cover the overcasting. Use a cer- 
tain thread in the goods as a guide for the depth 
of the stitches. Round the corner carefully, 
keep the stitches together in the cut, and apart 
on the outside, like the sticks of a fan. Turn 
and work along the other side to the bar. To 
work the bar, put the needle in the cut and 
bring it out on the right hand end, and out- 
side of the bar. Hold the buttonhole across 
the finger and work the strands of the bar with 
the embroidery buttonhole stitch. 

The bar should be far enough out so as 
just to meet the sewing on the buttonhole. The 
ends of the bar should be on a line with the 
outside of the buttonhole stitches. When 



30 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

finished, put the needle through to the wrong 
side, carrying the thread under three or four 
of the other threads. 

If the buttonhole has been carefully handled, 
when finished it will be a straight slit, the 
edges almost meeting. [Fig. 12.] 

Button Loops 

Work from the right side of the material on 
the edge of the goods. Take three stitches 
large enough to form a loop to slip over the 



iiiiiiiii ininiiini ii i iii i 
iMiiiiiiiiiinifiiiiiifiiii 



i;^ 



Figure 12 



button; then, without breaking the thread, 
work over the loop with the embroidery but- 
tonhole stitch. Hold the loop under the left 
thumb and push the stitches closely together 
as each one is made. Fasten the threads care- 
fully on the wrong side. 

Sewing on a Button 

In sewing on a button, start the thread on the 
right side so the knot will be hidden by the 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 31 

button. If the button has four holes, the sew- 
ing should form a square on the wrong side 
and a cross on the right side. Use a double 
thread. After taking the first stitch, slip a pin 
across the button and sew over it. This per- 
mits of sewing the button firmly but not tightly. 
Another way is, after sewing several times 
through the holes wrap the stitches be- 
tween the button and material with the thread 
two or three times. Then draw through and 
fasten the thread securely on the wrong side. 

Herringbone or Catch-Stitch 

This stitch is used on the wrong side of the 
seams of flannel to make them flat. After the 
seam has been sewed up with a plain running- 
stitch, open and press as flat as possible. Knot 
the silk and begin the catch-stitching at the 
left. Put the needle under the edge of the 
seam, and draw it through to the top. Take a 
short running-stitch on one side of the seam 
near the edge, and then across to the other 
side, each time advancing a little to the right. 
By beginning to sew at the left, the thread is 
crossed at each stitch. The sewing is done 
of course on the wrong side of the garment. 



32 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

[Fig. 13.] On the right side is a double Hne 
of running-stitches as nearly as possible invis- 
ible. Herringbone must be perfectly even. 

Feather-Stitch or Briar-Stitch 

Feather-stitching can be used in so many dif- 
ferent v^ays to make garments dainty that I 




Figure 13 

am sure every little girl will be amply repaid 
for learning how to do it well. 

This stitch is worked on the right side and 
toward the person sewing. The work is held 
in the left hand over the first finger, and kept 
in place with the thumb and second finger. 
The needle being drawn through for the first 




Infant's Long White Petticoat — Figure 26 

4 — How to Dress a Doll 



60 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



, Figure 27 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 51 

by the under-arm seams according to the 
notches; then baste and sew in a felled seam. 

The bottom of the skirt may be hemmed or 
it may have a ruffle at the bottom. This should 
be cut across the material and be once and a 
half as wide as the bottom of the skirt. The 
seams of the ruffle are joined with the tiniest 
French seam, or the selvages can be over- 
handed if they are not heavy. Sew this ruffle 
to the skirt on the right side and cover the 
seam with narrow insertion or beading. 

The skirt is not sewed on the shoulders but 
is joined by buttons and buttonholes. The 
front shoulder pieces lap over the back. Cut- 
ting the skirt in this way makes it much easier 
to dress Dolly, as the skirt is slipped over the 
head. Overhand the neck and armholes with 
lace, also the ruffle at the bottom of the skirt. 
Three hand-run tucks just above the ruffle add 
a very dainty touch to this little garment. 

The flannel skirt [Fig. 28] is cut from a 
straight piece of fine white flannel, joined in 
a seam at the back, leaving an opening at the 
top for a vent. Open the seam and work with 
herringbone. Turn up at the lower end for 
an inch-wide hem, which should be briar- 
stitched. Or the bottom of the hem may be 




Infant's Flannel Skirt — Figure 28 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 53 

marked with a scallop and buttonholed in white 
embroidery silk. 

The skirt [Fig. 29] is then gathered into a 
wide muslin band [Fig. 30] large enough to 
fit around Dolly's body. Lap over at the back 
and fasten with two tiny safety pins. 

The cap may be made in two ways. The 
one pictured [Fig. 17] is very simple, and 
suitable for an infant or very small doll. Meas- 
ure across the top of Dolly's head from ear 
to ear, and cut two pieces of insertion the 
exact length. Sew these together. Then 
gather along the edge of one piece and draw 
into a knot to form the back. Sew beading 
all around the cap and run ribbon through the 
beading. Finish with two ribbon rosettes, one 
on either temple, and ribbon ties. 

The rosettes may be made from short ends 
of ribbon knotted in the middle and the ends 
then sewed to a tiny circle of canvas or 
buckram. 

A pattern [Fig. 31] is given for another cap 
which is suitable for a medium-sized doll. 
Cut from lawn, making the front edge big 
enough to go around the doll's head. Join 
the front piece according to the notches and 
sew in the round piece at the back in a tiny 



54 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 









i 

! 

1 
1 

1 
1 




a 
' 

1 

! 


> 


Figure 30 

Hem < 



Figure 29 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



55 



seam. Edge with insertion and a frill of lace 
around the face. A stiff standing bow of rib- 
bon adorns the top. 




Figure 31 

Little bootees are worn with this costume; 
but it is better to buy them. They cost but a 
few cents in the shops. 




Party Dress — Figure 32 



CHAPTER VI 
THE PARTY DRESS 

This dainty dress [Fig. 32] may be just 
as elaborate as possible. The more lace and 
insertion used the fluffier and prettier it will 
look. Cut like the pattern shown in Fig. 23. 
Join the skirt according to the notches and 
gather to the yoke [Fig. 24]. This yoke is 
also made without a shoulder seam because it 
is simpler and more easily trimmed. Close the 
sleeves [Fig. 25] according to the notches and 
gather into the armhole. Gather the lower 
edge to insertion and finish with a frill of lace. 
Run ribbon under the insertion, or if beading 
is used instead, through it. Bows of ribbon 
adorn the yoke. 

The skirt may have one or two rows of in- 
sertion running around it, at the bottom, a 
lace-edged ruffle. The insertion is sewed to 
the right side of the skirt and yoke. The edges 
may be stitched on the machine and the ma- 
terial cut away underneath, except a tiny edge 

57 



68 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



which is turned back and stitched again. Or it 
can be sewed on the right side by hand stitch- 
ing, the material cut away and the edges over- 
handed with tiny stitches. This dress is dainty 
when made of dotted swiss, or French muslin. 
The underclothes to go with it [Figs. 33 
and 34] are made of fine lawn. The little 




Figure 33 



skirt is cut from a straight piece sewed to- 
gether at the back and gathered to a narrow 
band fastened with a button and buttonhole. 
Trim with a ruffle of two-inch-wide German 
Valenciennes lace, overhanded to the edge. 
Often lace, instead of being gathered for a 
ruffle, has the upper thread in its edge pulled, 
which shirrs it to any desired fulness. Another 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 59 

ruffle may be sewed to the skirt above this one, 
as the more beruffled the petticoat the more 
the skirt stands out. 

The undergarment [Fig. 34] is simple and 
easily made, for the little waist and panties 



Figure 34 

[Fig. 35] are cut in one piece. In cutting this 
pattern for a larger doll, the slash will have 
to be made as long as the legs, from the knee 
up. Join the shoulder seams and slashed parts 
to form the legs. Turn in the backs from the 



60 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 




Figure 35 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 61 

tops of the slashes for hems and fasten with 
buttons and buttonholes. Face the armholes, 
neck and panty legs with a narrow facing and 



Figure 36 

finish with a frill of lace; wider for the legs 
and quite tiny for the rest. 

To this outfit may be added a flannel petti- 
coat made exactly like the white one, only 



62 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

finished with a briar-stitched hem. This cona- 
pletes Dolly's lingerie. 

White slippers and socks should be worn 
with this dress. 

Dolly's lingerie hat is fashioned of the same 
material as her dress. The pattern [Fig. 36] 
is cut perfectly round and is finished on the 
edge with German Valenciennes lace, or em- 
broidery, if preferred. After the trimming is 
sewed on, try the hat on and measure for a 
frill becoming to the face. Next, gather evenly 
all round and draw up to form the crown, 
which must fit the doll's head. Finish with 
a bow of soft ribbon, brought round the crown 
and tied in front. 



CHAPTER VII 
DOLLY'S STREET CLOTHES 

Here is Dolly dressed for a walk. Her coat 
may be made from any desired material. If 
for a very dressy one, cut from velvet or 
heavy silk. Serge or thin broadcloth, trimmed 
with braid and small fancy buttons, makes a 
smart little coat. Of the wash materials, flan- 
nel and pique are perhaps the favorites. 

The one here pictured [Fig. 37] is made 
from pique and cut from the same pattern used 
for Fig. 17, only shortened so as to come a 
few inches above the short skirt. Be sure in 
cutting the pattern [Figs. 18 and 19] to lay 
it lengthwise of the material, especially in 
silk or flannel, and if stripes are to be used 
join them before laying the two sides of the 
pattern on the material, so they will match 
when sewed. 

Join the under-arm and shoulder seams in 
a felled seam. Turn back the fronts for a 

63 




Dolly's Street Costume — Figure 37 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 65 

facing and the lower edge for a hem. Make 
the sleeves and either plait or gather them into 
the armhole binding with a narrow piece of 
silk, if the material be heavy. Join the deep 
collar to the neck, without a band, and bind 
the inside rough edges, or face them flat to 
the coat. 

Fasten down the front with pearl buttons. 
The buttons may also trim the sleeves. The 
collar can be made a little more fancy by bind- 
ing the edge with a color or sewing lace or 
embroidery around the edge. 

In such a tiny coat it is difficult to make 
real pockets, but they may be simulated by 
sewing little stitched flaps to either side. 
Black shoes and white stockings look well with 
this coat and hat. The hat is a simple straw 
trimmed with a -band of ribbon with long loops 
and ends down the back. Little girls who 
know how to do raffia work can easily make 
such a hat for themselves. 



5 — How to Dress a Doll 




Dolly's Everyday Dress — Figure 38 



CHAPTER VIII 
THE EVERYDAY DRESS 

This little dress [Fig. 38] is plain and easily 
made. In colored lawn, gingham or chambray 
it will look very well. Lay the material in 
box plaits before cutting out — three plaits for 
the front and two for the back. To make these 
plaits fold the middle one down a lengthwise 
crease of the material, measuring as if for a 
deep tuck. Then make another tuck on either 
side, being very accurate as to measuring and 
allowing the proper space between when the 
tucks are opened out. End the plaits a little 
below, the waist line. Sew the tucks firmly, 
then press them open, being careful that the 
middle of each plait runs on the line of the 
sewing and does not twist. Baste and press 
flat. 

Be careful in pinning the pattern to have the 
center of the front pattern [Fig. 39] in the 
middle of the center plait. Cut out the back 
[Fig. 40] so a box plait comes on either side 

67 



68 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



of the center. Make an opening at the back 
of the neck and face back with a narrow strip 
of the material. Join the front and back ac- 
cording to the notches; make French seams. 



Figure 39 

Turn up the lower edge and hem neatly, or 
briar-stitch. 

Join the sleeves [Fig. 41] and gather into 
the armhole. Gather lower edge of sleeve to 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 69 

form a ruffle, and edge with lace or embroidery. 
Make the neck in like manner. As these 
gatherings are not sewed into a band they must 
be stayed or made firm by sewing them to a 



Figure 40 

narrow strip of the material or tape under- 
neath. 

The belt is a straight piece of the material, 
doubled over lengthwise, with the edges turned 



70 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

in and stitched on the outside. One end should 
be folded into a point. The belt is run through 
strips of the material sewed to the dress on 




Figure 41 

the under-arm seams at the waist line. The belt 
is buttoned in front. 

Underwear for this dress is made from the 
same patterns as the preceding ones, only not 
so elaborately. 



CHAPTER IX 
DOLLY'S APRON 

This dainty apron [Fig. 42] is ivorn over 
any plain dress. It is made of lawn or dimity 
or of checked gingham. To cut it, fold over 
the material on a lengthwise crease and put 
the pattern [Fig. 43] with the front edge so 
it comes on the fold of the material. 

Join the shoulder seams in a flat fell and 
hem the backs for buttons and buttonholes. 
Either gather or plait the long, straight piece 
in the front, into a space wide enough to fit 
over Dolly's chest. Bind it with a narrow 
piece of the material to hold it firm. If plaits 
are used instead of gathers, fold half of them 
to the right and half to the left so they face 
on each side toward the center. Hem the arm- 
holes. 

Finish around the square neck with em- 
broidery insertion, turning in the edges on each 
side. Put an edging to match around the bot- 
tom, sewing it on flat and not in a ruflie. If 

71 




Dolly's Apron — Figure 42 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



73 



Fold 




Figure 43 



74 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

preferred, a tiny edge of lace can be whipped 
to either edge of the insertion around the neck, 
to make a more fancy finish. 

Another pretty way to make this apron 
would be to trim the neck with a band of 
colored lawn or linen, and to put on a hem of 
the color at the bottom. To do this, sew the 
seam so it comes on the right side, turn in as 
for a hem, and sew on the right side. Or the 
hem can be stitched across the bottom in color, 
and a plain band put on the neck and stitched 
to match. 

If preferred, the apron may be just hemmed 
without any trimming. 

Be careful to measure the spaces for the 
buttons and buttonholes so they come exactly 
opposite, else the apron will pucker when 
fastened. 



CHAPTER X 

DOLLY'S NIGHTGOWN 

Here is Dolly ready for bed [Fig. 44]. 
One half of the nightie pattern is shown 



Crosswise Fold 



V^ 





Figure 45 

[Fig. 45]. To cut it fold the material over 
crosswise instead of lengthwise, as in all the 

75 




Dolly Ready for Bed — Figure 44 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 77 

other patterns. It should be made of nain- 
sook or lawn. As this little garment slips on 
over the head, the neck opening should be 
amply large, but not too large. If it gets too 
big by mistake, a beading may be run around 
the edge and the lace sewed to that; then it 
can be drawn up with baby ribbon. 

Join the side seams according to the notches 
and make a felled seam. Trim the low neck 
and sleeves with Valenciennes lace. Hem the 
lower edge and the nightdress is made. 

To make the nightdress very fine, short 
strips of insertion may be sewed down from 
the neck in front. Sew flat as was described 
before and then cut away the material beneath. 




Dolly's Kimono — Figure 46 



CHAPTER XI 
DOLLY'S KIMONO 

This comfortable little kimono [Fig. 46] is 
made very much the same as the nightie, ex- 
cept that it is open down the front as is shown 
in Fig. 47. In cutting the pattern, fold over 
the material as for the nightie; but instead of 
just cutting the neck opening on the front fold, 
open the front by following the dotted lines 
on each side. If you want your kimono to 
lap over on the fronts, instead of making the 
lines apart, as shown in the dots of the pat- 
tern, cut the front piece directly up the center 
until Dolly's neck is reached, when two sloping 
lines may be made to the shoulders. 

Sew up both the under-arm seams and the 
under parts of the sleeves. Turn up the hem 
for the bottom and bind the sleeves and each 
side of the front with broad bands of some con- 
trasting plain color. This binding is put on 
by sewing the right side of the silk to the 
wrong side of the kimono; baste it carefully 

79 



80 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 




Figure 47 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 81 

first, then turn over on to the right side, press 
down the seam and baste along the outer edge. 
Then measure the binding carefully with a 
notched measuring card, to get it exactly even. 
Turn in a little of the edge as for a hem. Baste 
again, and either hem neatly or stitch it on the 
machine. Cut the silk for the binding on the 
straight of the weave. 

If ribbon is used instead of material for this 
binding, the edge of it should be sewed to the 
wrong side of the kimono, with the edge of the 
ribbon pointing toward the sleeve. It is 
stitched through but not so as to show on the 
right side, then is turned over the edge and 
basted and sewed on the right side. 

This kimono may be made of any soft, 
woolen stuff, or of silk or flowered lawn. 
Pieces of silk from mother's party frocks would 
be lovely to use. If the material of the kimono 
is figured, the binding should be plain and in 
a contrasting color. If the kimono is plain, 
pretty flowered ribbon, silks or lawn should be 
used. 

A plain band may be trimmed by briar-stitch- 
ing down each side, or one may stitch the edge 
on the machine with another line of stitches 
about a quarter of an inch apart. 

6— How to Dress a Doll 




Red Riding Hood Costume— Figure 48 







CHAPTER XII 
THE RED RIDING HOOD COSTUME 

The chief feature of Red Riding Hood's 
costume [Fig. 48] is her cape. Almost any 
kind of red woolen or silk material will make 
up nicely, and the cape can be finished in 
several ways. It may be hemmed all around 
and left plain; it may be lined throughout, 
though this is not necessary and makes extra 
work ; or it may be faced back with a band 
of red silk. The outside may be feather- 
stitched instead of hemmed, and may be 
trimmed with several rows of narrow soutache 
braid. 

In cutting the cape [Fig. 49] fold over the 
material lengthwise; put the edge marked 
"Fold'- on the fold of the material and cut 
carefully on the circular lines. If the cape is 
lined, it is basted and sewed to the material, 
right side to right side, leaving an opening 
at the top to turn it. Turn in the silk and 
the wool at the neck and stitch together close 
83 



84 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



o^ 



^^ 



■^ 



FlGUBE 49 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 85 

to the edge on the right side. If the cape is 
lined it is simply overhanded to the hood as 
neatly as possible; if unlined it is sewed in 
a seam and the rough edges bound. 

Cut the hood the shape of the pattern 
[Fig. 50], making it plenty large enough to 




Figure 50 

slip on easily over Dolly's head and make a 
becoming frill. It is lined with silk the same 
shade, in the way described for the cape. 
After lining, run a casing a short distance from 
the outer edge, for a drawing-string. This 
casing is a narrow piece of ribbon or bias silk 
sewed on both edges. The ends are left open 



86 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

for the ribbon to be run in, to draw up the 
hood into a ruffle. 

Fasten the hood to the cape without a neck- 
band in the way described. The cape must 
reach almost to the hem of the dress. 

This cape may be worn over any kind of 
frock that is rather plain. Simple under- 
clothes and black shoes and stockings complete 
the outfit. 

The little dress shown in the picture [Fig. 
48] is a dotted red and white gingham trimmed 
with stitched bands of plain red gingham 
around the yoke. The side pieces are cut in 
points front and back and the little yoke is 
made of white embroidery. The skirt is 
trimmed with two half-inch tucks. There is no 
pattern for this dress, but the skirt is cut in 
a straight strip, sewed up the back, leaving an 
opening for the vent. It is gathered at the 
waistline to form a simple baby waist. 



CHAPTER XIII 
A PIERROT COSTUME 

The Pierrot, or clown, suit here pictured 
[Fig. 51] is one of the most attractive as 
well as the most easily made of all the fancy 
dresses for dolls. This one is made of white 
satin and trimmed with black velvet buttons, 
but it can be made up in very cheap materials 
of gaudy colorings. One leg and sleeve may 
be made of a color contrasting with the other 
leg and sleeve, as red and green, orange and 
black, blue and yellow. 

Cut two pieces according to the pattern 
[Fig. 52]. The dotted line under the arms 
should be placed on the straight of the goods, 
which brings a bias seam down the front. 
The back is lefi open and hemmed for buttons 
and buttonholes, as the buttons in front are 
not used for fastening, but only for ornament. 

Sew the lower part of each half up as far 
as the notches to form the legs. These legs 
are then turned up and gathered a little above 

87 




Pierrot, or Clown, Suit — Figu^ie 51 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 



89 



the lower edge to form a ruffle. The sleeve- 
ruffle is finished in the same way. Both should 
be stayed with narrow bands underneath. Or 



op 



^ 



1 



Figure 52 

narrow casings can be made and pieces of 
elastic run through them. 

The sleeves [Fig. 53] are joined according 



90 HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 

to the notches, gathered in the armhole and 
finished at the edge Hke the trousers. A 
straight piece of material, folded double and 
gathered as full as possible forms the ruff 
around the neck. The ruff is gathered to the 



Figure 53 

neck and the edges are bound and hemmed 
down flat to the suit. This neck-ruff is a very- 
important feature of the suit and should always 
be white. Three or even four times the meas- 
urement of the neck should be allowed for it 
so as to make it very frilly. 

Cut three pieces like the cap pattern [Fig. 
54], one of satin, another of crinoline or can- 
vas for stiffening, and a third of thin silk or 
lawn for lining. Cover the crinoline with the 
satin and face with the lining. Hem the edges 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 91 

all round. The cap must be sewed up on the 
outside, so join according to the notches and 
overhand with very small stitches. Trim with 
large velvet buttons. If the overhanding can- 
not be very neatly done the stitches may be 




Figure 54 

covered by sewing over them a line of gold 
braid. 

White silk stockings and white slippers 
ornamented with black velvet buttons complete 
this stunning costume. 

Underclothes are entirely dispensed with. 




Japanese Dress— Figure 55 



CHAPTER XIV 
A JAPANESE DRESS 

This Japanese dress [Fig. 55] is exactly like 
the ones the little ladies wear in far Japan. 
Cut the pattern [Fig. 56] from bright colored 
silk or cotton stuff. If you can get some of 
the real Japanese silks it will be much prettier. 

In cutting this pattern the material is folded 
crosswise as for the kimono, and the fronts 
are cut according to the dotted lines or in a 
straight line down the middle, as described in 
making the kimono. The facing is put down 
the front in the same way, too. These facings 
may be of plain silk or cotton, carrying out 
the chief color of the dress. 

The sleeves [Fig. 57] are straight pieces of 
the material lined with the plain. In cutting 
them, double over the material so it runs the 
same way as the body of the dress, put the end 
marked "Fold" on the crease and cut with 
the notches as in the pattern. Sew the ends 
together. 

93 



94 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 




Figure 56 



HOW TO DRESS A DOLL 95 

Now sew up the sides of the dress to the 
notches; and above the notches sew in the 
sleeves, fitting the notches of one to the notches 
of the other. This will leave the loose sleeve- 
ends hanging free. 

The dress is completed by a wide sash tied 



Fold 



Figure 57 

in a stiff bow at the back. Make the sash of a 
strip of the same material as the facing and 
hem so as not to have raw edges. 

The bottom of the dress is turned up and 
hemmed neatly. 

THE END 



